Welcome to Tech Talk, where our resident BMW tech Nick Owen answers all your pressing BMW technical questions, frustrations, and issues. Have a question for Nick? Email him at techtalk@roundel.org. Let’s get into it.
2011 335d Issues
I have a 2011 335d, now with approximately 232,000 miles. I’ve owned the car since new and have serviced it substantially in accord with Mike Miller’s schedule (particularly, oil changes every 5-6000 miles).
I’m now experiencing the less-than-ideal M57 oil pan drain plug issue because the drain plug threads were partially stripped sometime during an oil change. The shop that I am working with looked for a new pan using the part number from the existing pan, 11-13-7-801-363. They report (and I have confirmed by a search of BMW parts departments) that BMW discontinued this part. Searching for a “335d oil pan” I found part no. 11-13-7-570-400 (and which replaces 11-13-7-542-043). I’m told that part *-400 fits a gasoline engine (M54 or 55) but BMW dealers’ parts produce that numbered part as fitting a 2011 335d (engine M57). The shop doesn’t want to use that part, concerned that it won’t fit and my car would be sitting on one of its lifts waiting for another pan. There are few, if any, used pans but it’s likely buying someone else’s problem.
My questions:
- Does the *-400 part actually fit a diesel engine M57 as my BMW parts search suggested?
- Can you help me trace part *-363 into either *-043 or the current part no. *-400, or contact BMW engineering to see if they can tell whether the pans are substantially the same so that I can undertake the repair using that part? Or, can I find an oil pan in Europe for delivery to the U.S.?
- Alternatively, from a BMW owner group chat line I learned about Time-Sert. Its kit 1215C (described as “commonly used in BMW automotive”) comes with drills and inserts to ream out the existing thread, establish new threads that fit the drilled-out hole, and install the insert with threads that a new oil pan plug will fit. Owners on the chat report good success repairing stripped threads. Have you had any experience with Time-Sert and would you recommend this procedure—certainly less expensive than a new (or used pan which could have stripped threads too). If so, would I need the 9.2mm insert with that kit or a shorter 6.7mm insert?
- I learned, too, that AGA makes a product similar to the Time-Sert. Rather than drilling a new thread, its system forces a new thread by compressing the thread walls out (thereby “strengthening the thread”). Any thoughts on this remedy?
My final question about the oil pan is the more important one for the BMW fleet. Why has BMW discontinued the oil pan? This engine is used on many BMW models, particularly in Europe. Is it that BMW wants these cars off the road? I’m considering my options
During the time I’m looking for an oil pan, I did some research about what other problems I might find in the next 75-100,000 miles that I’d like to keep the car. What is your recommendation about either removing the swirl flaps in the intake manifold or, as a preventive action, replacing the existing flaps. I’d rather replace the flaps but am told that the flaps are only available with a new manifold. Is that right? I’m not even finding a manifold.
Mark Davis
I can attest to the oil pan bolt stripping on a 335d, for I have done this. Granted, this was back in 2015 and oil pans were still being produced. However, over the years this practice vanished. It was rather ridiculous to have to replace the complete oil pan for stripped threads that hold in the drain plug. It wasn’t just me. It was every technician that was servicing these cars at or around 100k miles. And it was on the F15 X5 (N55) as well. Luckily, AGA tools came out with a kit that allowed factory level replacement with a slightly larger drain plug size. As long as it was installed correctly, it was a satisfactory repair that could be completed within the hour and saves everyone the headache.
I would advise your repair shop to pursue this repair. As for what to do with your 335d, this is what I would do:
- Leverage the lack of emission restrictions in your current state of residence and remove all failing emission control devices that will eventually fail on the M57 engine. This includes the SCR system, Swirl Flaps, EGR Cooler and Diesel Particulate Filter.
- Have the parts replaced with an aftermarket kit that will eliminate the false check engine light warnings and retune the DDE for more power.
- Most intake manifolds will need to be cleaned, but replacement is easier if you can find one. They may also be NLA. Be ready to do a Walnut blast service on the intake ports every 100-150,000 miles. There is nothing you can do to prevent carbon build up so it becomes a service item that should be done in conjunction with another repair to help with labor overlap.
- The engine will leak oil. Don’t go crazy chasing the leaks. It’s diesel; it’s supposed to leak. Just like any other E90, it will need the FRM and A/C evaporator replaced at some point.
This is the best way to enjoy the 335d without having to chase or prepare for the issues that come with time and mileage. I have serviced and repaired these my entire career and seen thousands of dollars thrown at them to fix the check engine light items. While they’re great job security, at some point, every owner taps out and sells the car.
I hope this helps you find some answers in your endeavor to keep the 335d.
Oil Loss Update
I wanted to bring you up to date on this issue. I did have Blackstone Labs analyze an oil sample. They found no indication of poor wear.
I spoke with the dealership about this and they have offered to sell me a new 2026 BMW X5 PHEV (MSRP $81,500) for my car (2025 X5 40i valued at $55,600) plus $16,500. The appeal for me here is that I won’t worry about any potential problems and I start anew with three-year services and four-year warranty.
So, my choices are:
- Do nothing in hopes there are no issues after the warranty period
- Take the dealers earlier offer of an additional year or 10,000 miles
- Trade in the car for the newer one.
Any thoughts?
Tom
The choice here is simple, live with the car or get rid of it. Given that the Blackstone analysis came back good, the car has no symptoms of the engine being compromised and the dealership isn’t going to replace it. So, you have to ask yourself: what will make you sleep at night? If knowing that this car has the smallest potential to possibly have an issue at an unknown time period down the road, I would say trade the car in. The alternative is you enjoy the car and go about your life.
But, just so you’re aware, the dealership wins in nearly all of these scenarios. It costs them zero extra money to extend the warranty for one-year or 10,000 miles. Until there is a failure, they will not replace anything. And, if you did trade in your X5 in for the PHEV, the dealership is going to not only get an additional $16,500 out of you but they’re going to get wholesale credit for moving that new 2026 unit and taking your trade in and immediately putting it on the CPO lot. Which will probably sell quickly considering it’s a B58 G05.
I’d take the warranty extension and live with the car. I’m a huge fan of the G05 with the B58, I think they’re the best all-around X5 and the engine is stout.
