Welcome to Tech Talk, where our resident BMW tech Nick Owen answers all your pressing BMW technical questions, frustrations, and issues. Have a question for Nick? Email him at techtalk@roundel.org. Let’s get into it.
Key Fob Issues
I have an ongoing periodic issue with the key fob on my 2007 335i coupe. Even when new, the driver’s side door would not unlock occasionally with a touch of the door handle, and while the dealership resolved this for the most part, it never worked perfectly. Over the years, it’s been okay, but now there are periodic problems with the key fob to the point where none of the doors or even the ignition switch pick up the wireless signal, though it will still start with the key fob inserted in the dash. Both key fobs act the same, and I’ve tried new batteries in each. I have heard that the module in the driver-side C pillar is the most likely component that has failed. Is this the right approach? Any guidance on how to get to this module would be appreciated.
Jeff Kirk
Bastrop, Texas
Comfort Access antennas are located in the center console area, both front and back as well as in the trunk and door handles. Based off your description of the issue, it would be wise to have this issue diagnosed at a dealership or BMW Independent shop that uses ISTA. This software will be able to do a fault scan and a signal strength test to see if there is a faulty antenna, or if it’s the keys. From my experience, it could very well be that both keys have failed internally, hence why they only work when inserted into the key slot. While I cannot advise on the issue this vehicle has had since new, I can say that the comfort access system for the E9X chassis was not perfect. We constantly dealt with complaints about it not working. New batteries helped, sometimes a new door handle did too, but in order to get any sort of rectification on this issue, it will need to be diagnosed by someone experienced with the E9X chassis.
X3 Extended Warranty?
I wrote a while back about a 2023 530e and then, following your feedback, started looking for a 2018 540i. As it turns out, I now own a 2019 Audi A6 and a 2022 BMW X3 xDrive30i with 12,000 miles.
The dealer tried to sell me a five-year extended warranty for $3400. When I told him I was a BMWCCA member since 1986, the price dropped to $2200. I declined on both.
Do you think an extended warranty is a good idea and, if so, do you have a suggestion which one I should look at?
Second question, my wife is 4’8” and wants me to get some side steps to help her get in. Do you prefer one make/vendor over another?
Scott M. Cunningham
I have to say I didn’t know being a BMW CCA member was worth $1200 off an extended warranty. That’s a nice discount. Might have to try that one…
First off, yes, I recommend extended warranties. However, just like how we deal with insurance, it’s tough to predict what the car will need should something fail. But the true devil is in the details of what exactly is covered under said warranty. The fine print is where you need to see the listed items of what is and isn’t covered in order to determine if you want specific coverage. In most cases you get what you pay for, so a $2200 extended warranty might be worth it if you’re up there in mileage and you use the car often. It comes down to cost versus use. My personal strategy is to have multiple other cars to offset the mileage being put on the car with the warranty coverage by leaning on the expiration date versus mileage of the warranty. Example: My BMWs are out of warranty but my 2019 Audi RS5 is at 85,000 miles and is covered until 2030 or 130,000. So, I’m hoping for some leaks between now and then to get my ROI. When it comes to which company: we have Fidelity, but I know there are several others out there. BMW Dealerships only deal with solvent companies because, far too often, warranty companies dissolve without telling anyone. And it’s not pretty when the customer finds out. I’d be curious to know what coverage was offered to you at time or purchase?
For running boards, I’ve personally only dealt with OEM for BMWs. They fit; they stayed secure and never had an issue going forward. I cannot advise on Amazon branded parts. For the money, I suppose they’re worth the try, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they didn’t quite fit right, the finish is off, or later down the road they break.
Telematics Module
My telematics unit failed and I get the “SOS” warning light on startup. There are numerous cross references to other modules. My local independent shop told me one of these modules could “brick” the car. Is this a huge risk? Will a used module that theoretically crosses to my failed unit require recoding or introduction to the car? The other option is just having the code calling for the SOS function deleted, about two hours shop time and do without Bluetooth connectivity (really just a minor irritant) but low risk.
Martin Birch
For clarity, plugging in a module from another BMW will not “brick” the car. But the module might not work properly, and warning lights may be on until the vehicle is made aware of the change. For the E9X chassis, it is possible to do this with some special coding. This usually requires someone capable of changing the VO (vehicle order) and telling the donor module that VIN:XXXXXXX is now VIN: PS06718. At the same time, it might be possible to code out the SOS warning completely without replacing the TCU. I’m just not 100 percent familiar with the aftermarket capabilities, but I know there are some things that can be done on the E9X chassis.
